Monday, November 28, 2005
Welcome back...
Swobo is back! Oh hell yeah!!! Swobo is hands-down my favorite cycling clothing company. They were one of the only companies that seemed to know how to make wool jerseys that actually fit normal human beings. Most other companies seem to think wool jerseys should hang down around your knees with sleeves that end 3-4 inches from your wrist. Don't know why this is but I've had jerseys from numerous companies that fit this way. Odd thing is several of these companies also make plastic bike clothes that fit normally. Go figure. Anyhooo...Swobo are back in business under the ownership of founder Tim Parr. Right now the selection is kind of thin (short sleeve jerseys in November?) but hopefully that will change. Go to: http://www.swobo.com/ and commit acts of commerce NOW!!
Monday, November 14, 2005
Dynohub
Finally got the chance to commute to work on the Smoothie. Nice rolling 30 mile ride early in the AM.
This was my first extended ride on my Shimano dynohub and Lumotec light. Conditions for the ride were probably ideal for testing a dynohub: several sections of streets without lights, sketchy pavement, and sporadic rain. Overall, this system doesn't put out nearly as much light as my old Niterider. At first, it took some getting used to but now I'm convinced that having less light is probably better. With the supernova light of some systems the contrast between what the beam illuminates and the surrounding environment is so great that all you can see is what the beam is shining on. With the toned down lighting of the Shimano/Lumotec system I was better able to see my surrounding environment. I think the battery powered systems still have a place - especially off-road - but for most road riding I think the dynohub system is the way to go. I think the only conditions under which the system might be inadequate would be high speed descents on unfamiliar roads.
Mounting the lights was a bit of an ordeal. I tried using the metal bracket that mounts the light above the brake caliper. Problem was the mount was too narrow. It's got a U shape to it and was too narrow to fit around the brake washer. I tried to modify it with a Dremel tool but wound up weakening it causing it to fail after just a few short rides. Finally, I was able to use a part of a plastic mount originally intended for mounting a blinky light to a seatpost. I used the part of the mount that attaches to the blink and mounted the Lumotec lamp to the top of my SKS fender. I was worried that the fender would be too flimsy and that the light would vibrate/shake too much. This turned out not to be a problem. For now it seems to be working.
This was my first extended ride on my Shimano dynohub and Lumotec light. Conditions for the ride were probably ideal for testing a dynohub: several sections of streets without lights, sketchy pavement, and sporadic rain. Overall, this system doesn't put out nearly as much light as my old Niterider. At first, it took some getting used to but now I'm convinced that having less light is probably better. With the supernova light of some systems the contrast between what the beam illuminates and the surrounding environment is so great that all you can see is what the beam is shining on. With the toned down lighting of the Shimano/Lumotec system I was better able to see my surrounding environment. I think the battery powered systems still have a place - especially off-road - but for most road riding I think the dynohub system is the way to go. I think the only conditions under which the system might be inadequate would be high speed descents on unfamiliar roads.
Mounting the lights was a bit of an ordeal. I tried using the metal bracket that mounts the light above the brake caliper. Problem was the mount was too narrow. It's got a U shape to it and was too narrow to fit around the brake washer. I tried to modify it with a Dremel tool but wound up weakening it causing it to fail after just a few short rides. Finally, I was able to use a part of a plastic mount originally intended for mounting a blinky light to a seatpost. I used the part of the mount that attaches to the blink and mounted the Lumotec lamp to the top of my SKS fender. I was worried that the fender would be too flimsy and that the light would vibrate/shake too much. This turned out not to be a problem. For now it seems to be working.
Tuesday, November 08, 2005
It's all about the customer...or at least it should be!
David Pogue has a great article in the Technology section of the NY Times last week. The article was titled "10 Ways to Please Us, the Customers" and it's aimed at electronics consumers. It got me to thinking about customer service (or the lack thereof) in the bicycle industry. This isn't going to be the most original entry but, as Oscar Wilde once said: "Talent borrows, genius steals!" Here's my list of ways our industry can better serve our customers:
1) Bike companies need to send bikes properly pre-assembled. If Sony and Samsung can ship 50" plasma TVs halfway across the planet Hodaka and Giant should be able to ship an assembled bike. Labor costs are killing the LBS and this in turn is ultimately bad for the consumer.
2) Create a real owner's manual. Most seem to have been written by lawyers and seem to be preoccupied with keeping the manufacturer from being sued. Seeing "...may result in serious injury or death" every other paragraph doesn't exactly instill confidence in the consumer. Terrifying your customers usually isn't good for business.
3) Create a real catalog. The 1993-1995 Bridgestone catalogs are considered collectors items for a reason. In addition to describing the bikes they contained a wealth of interesting information. Most catalogs are little more than a few race shots, some marketing hyperbole and a spreadsheet of statistics. While we're at it list the weight for your bikes. If your carboscandanium is really that light why not list the weight? True, it really doesn't matter but a lot of people want to know.
4) Return phone calls and e-mails. I'm amazed at the number of e-mails I've sent to various companies that have never been replied to. Whether it's a question about product availability or a technical issue it seems many vendors don't bother to reply. I guess it's because they don't want my money.
5) Sell bikes people actually will want to ride. Most people don't race so why do most road bikes come with the same gears as those used by professionals? Do you really think some 35 year old dentist is capable of pushing the same 53x12 as the pros? On the whole, tires need to have more air volume, saddles need to be wider, bars need to be higher, and gears need to be lower. You can do all of this and still have a slick looking bike. A few companies seem to have clued into this and hopefully more will follow.
6) Don't treat saddles as an afterthought. It's the primary point of contact with the bike. Be willing to spend more than $3 on it. While we're at it, stop speccing skinny ass-hatchet saddles. Those are great for skinny-assed racers but lousy for the remaining 99% of the riding public. Of course saddle makers may scream at the impact this will have on sales but that basically proves product managers are doing a terrible job when it comes to saddles.
7) Don't hire racers to drive your marketing. These people are used to getting gear for free so what in the world makes you think they understand the first thing about how consumers make purchasing decisions? Hire marketing professionals who know what they're doing.
8) Stop giving away your merchandise. Microsoft didn't give me an X-Box because I like playing Rallisport so why should Bike Company X give someone a bike to race on the weekends? It's shocking how many people are riding on stuff they got for free or at a steep discount. Bike racing for the vast majority of people is a hobby and hobbies are things you pay to do. I don't know of any other hobby that gives away so much product. This is especially true for Masters since most of them make more than enough money to afford to finance their hobby.
9) Drop the "dude" mentality. Could you imagine what it would be like if bankers, mortgage brokers, or car salesmen acted the way your typical bike shop employee acted? Yikes. Of course it doesn't help when the typical bike shop employee makes less than the typical Starbuck's barrista.
10) Think outside the box. Why do so many bikes end up looking the same? Every year it seems someone designates a hip color and all the companies come out with a bike in that color. One year it's orange, the next year it's flames. Stop playing "me too" in the graphics department. Again, it might help to hire people from outside the industry.
1) Bike companies need to send bikes properly pre-assembled. If Sony and Samsung can ship 50" plasma TVs halfway across the planet Hodaka and Giant should be able to ship an assembled bike. Labor costs are killing the LBS and this in turn is ultimately bad for the consumer.
2) Create a real owner's manual. Most seem to have been written by lawyers and seem to be preoccupied with keeping the manufacturer from being sued. Seeing "...may result in serious injury or death" every other paragraph doesn't exactly instill confidence in the consumer. Terrifying your customers usually isn't good for business.
3) Create a real catalog. The 1993-1995 Bridgestone catalogs are considered collectors items for a reason. In addition to describing the bikes they contained a wealth of interesting information. Most catalogs are little more than a few race shots, some marketing hyperbole and a spreadsheet of statistics. While we're at it list the weight for your bikes. If your carboscandanium is really that light why not list the weight? True, it really doesn't matter but a lot of people want to know.
4) Return phone calls and e-mails. I'm amazed at the number of e-mails I've sent to various companies that have never been replied to. Whether it's a question about product availability or a technical issue it seems many vendors don't bother to reply. I guess it's because they don't want my money.
5) Sell bikes people actually will want to ride. Most people don't race so why do most road bikes come with the same gears as those used by professionals? Do you really think some 35 year old dentist is capable of pushing the same 53x12 as the pros? On the whole, tires need to have more air volume, saddles need to be wider, bars need to be higher, and gears need to be lower. You can do all of this and still have a slick looking bike. A few companies seem to have clued into this and hopefully more will follow.
6) Don't treat saddles as an afterthought. It's the primary point of contact with the bike. Be willing to spend more than $3 on it. While we're at it, stop speccing skinny ass-hatchet saddles. Those are great for skinny-assed racers but lousy for the remaining 99% of the riding public. Of course saddle makers may scream at the impact this will have on sales but that basically proves product managers are doing a terrible job when it comes to saddles.
7) Don't hire racers to drive your marketing. These people are used to getting gear for free so what in the world makes you think they understand the first thing about how consumers make purchasing decisions? Hire marketing professionals who know what they're doing.
8) Stop giving away your merchandise. Microsoft didn't give me an X-Box because I like playing Rallisport so why should Bike Company X give someone a bike to race on the weekends? It's shocking how many people are riding on stuff they got for free or at a steep discount. Bike racing for the vast majority of people is a hobby and hobbies are things you pay to do. I don't know of any other hobby that gives away so much product. This is especially true for Masters since most of them make more than enough money to afford to finance their hobby.
9) Drop the "dude" mentality. Could you imagine what it would be like if bankers, mortgage brokers, or car salesmen acted the way your typical bike shop employee acted? Yikes. Of course it doesn't help when the typical bike shop employee makes less than the typical Starbuck's barrista.
10) Think outside the box. Why do so many bikes end up looking the same? Every year it seems someone designates a hip color and all the companies come out with a bike in that color. One year it's orange, the next year it's flames. Stop playing "me too" in the graphics department. Again, it might help to hire people from outside the industry.
Tuesday, November 01, 2005
Riding lessons
It seems like I'm seeing more and more cyclists failing to follow proper protocol while out on the road. In the interest of public service let me offer up the following lessons on how to be a proper cyclist:
1) Always make sure you wear matching shorts and jersey. Having a plain colored jersey devoid of logos and solid black shorts proves you don't know how to ride. Real riders wear the logos of their "sponsors". If you're not "sponsored" you're a nobody and shouldn't be riding on the road.
2) Make sure your bike is coordinated. Tire tread color must match handlebar color. Handlebar, stem, and seatpost must be of the same brand. Ideally these items will be of the same brand as the "sponsor" on your jersey. Also the bike must be spotless - bikes owned by real riders will show no signs of every having been ridden. Absolutely under no circumstance are you allowed to mix Campy and Shimano! Wheels may not have more than 24 spokes and must be aerodynamic so as not to slow you down. Finally, at least 5 parts on your bike MUST be carbon fiber.
3) No old parts. You're riding 9 speed?? That's OK only on your "retro" bike that you ride when it rains. Real riders are using 10 speed for their primary bike. And don't even think of riding unless your bars are made from carbon fiber and your saddle weighs less than 300 grams. Steel frames are only acceptable if they're made by a craftsman who studied for 50 years in Italy, then built frames for a Tour champion (who had to race them with sponsor decals) and now has a 30 year waiting list. Even then you must refer to this as your "retro bike" that you just ride "for fun".
4) Obsess about weight. Real riders need to have the lightest gear possible. A 14.96lb bike might be OK for the pros who are forced to ride whatever junk they're given but real riders will cherry pick only the best parts for their bike. It's especially important to cut weight on such vital components as bottle cages, handlebars, tires and saddles. Durability isn't important since you'll replace the parts with next year's new stuff (see rule #3)
5) Run a 53 tooth big ring and 12 tooth cog. Real riders are strong riders. So strong that they need to have the exact same gears as the professionals. 48 and 50 tooth rings are for freds. Real riders are turning over the same 53x12 as Hincapie, Boonen, etc. So what if Eddy Merckx never needed a 53 tooth ring - he was forced to ride a STEEL bike. Your carboscandalloy bike is so light, stiff and aerodynamic it'll be no problem for a real rider to push a bigger gear than Eddy.
6) Run 23mm tires at 120+ psi. Traction and comfort are not important. All that matters is speed. Besides, that carbon fiber seatpost will magically absorb all the road shock.
7) Always ride with a group and always make sure you dress the same. This is vital to team cohesion which will later prove critical during such epic non-races as the Around The Lake Loop, Annual Century, and Tour de Charity Ride. Also be sure to silently pass by pedestrians as fast as possible. By terrifying the shit out of them you'll be sure to impress them with you're riding prowess. Remember: bells are for freds!
8) Bring plenty of gels, energy bars and drinks with you. You're training and it's essential that your highly tuned Adonis-like body be fueled by equally highly refined chemicals. Regular food is entirely incapable of providing the energy needed for your high intensity 2 hour ride. You wouldn't put plain unleaded gas into a Formula One race car!
9) Where "technical" clothing even when you're off the bike. Regular wool and cotton will cause you to simultaneously overheat, freeze to death and suffocate. You need to keep your highly tuned engine cocooned in petro-chemical fabrics designed to breath, stretch, massage and caress your athletic physique.
10) Demand a discount for all of your bike gear. You're a serious rider and serious riders shouldn't have to pay retail. Only newbies pay retail. You're special and shops need to recognize this buy giving you a discount. Since they mark everything up 100% this won't hurt them plus when people see you riding with the gear it'll drive up the shop's sales so you're doing them a favor with all the free advertising you're giving them.
1) Always make sure you wear matching shorts and jersey. Having a plain colored jersey devoid of logos and solid black shorts proves you don't know how to ride. Real riders wear the logos of their "sponsors". If you're not "sponsored" you're a nobody and shouldn't be riding on the road.
2) Make sure your bike is coordinated. Tire tread color must match handlebar color. Handlebar, stem, and seatpost must be of the same brand. Ideally these items will be of the same brand as the "sponsor" on your jersey. Also the bike must be spotless - bikes owned by real riders will show no signs of every having been ridden. Absolutely under no circumstance are you allowed to mix Campy and Shimano! Wheels may not have more than 24 spokes and must be aerodynamic so as not to slow you down. Finally, at least 5 parts on your bike MUST be carbon fiber.
3) No old parts. You're riding 9 speed?? That's OK only on your "retro" bike that you ride when it rains. Real riders are using 10 speed for their primary bike. And don't even think of riding unless your bars are made from carbon fiber and your saddle weighs less than 300 grams. Steel frames are only acceptable if they're made by a craftsman who studied for 50 years in Italy, then built frames for a Tour champion (who had to race them with sponsor decals) and now has a 30 year waiting list. Even then you must refer to this as your "retro bike" that you just ride "for fun".
4) Obsess about weight. Real riders need to have the lightest gear possible. A 14.96lb bike might be OK for the pros who are forced to ride whatever junk they're given but real riders will cherry pick only the best parts for their bike. It's especially important to cut weight on such vital components as bottle cages, handlebars, tires and saddles. Durability isn't important since you'll replace the parts with next year's new stuff (see rule #3)
5) Run a 53 tooth big ring and 12 tooth cog. Real riders are strong riders. So strong that they need to have the exact same gears as the professionals. 48 and 50 tooth rings are for freds. Real riders are turning over the same 53x12 as Hincapie, Boonen, etc. So what if Eddy Merckx never needed a 53 tooth ring - he was forced to ride a STEEL bike. Your carboscandalloy bike is so light, stiff and aerodynamic it'll be no problem for a real rider to push a bigger gear than Eddy.
6) Run 23mm tires at 120+ psi. Traction and comfort are not important. All that matters is speed. Besides, that carbon fiber seatpost will magically absorb all the road shock.
7) Always ride with a group and always make sure you dress the same. This is vital to team cohesion which will later prove critical during such epic non-races as the Around The Lake Loop, Annual Century, and Tour de Charity Ride. Also be sure to silently pass by pedestrians as fast as possible. By terrifying the shit out of them you'll be sure to impress them with you're riding prowess. Remember: bells are for freds!
8) Bring plenty of gels, energy bars and drinks with you. You're training and it's essential that your highly tuned Adonis-like body be fueled by equally highly refined chemicals. Regular food is entirely incapable of providing the energy needed for your high intensity 2 hour ride. You wouldn't put plain unleaded gas into a Formula One race car!
9) Where "technical" clothing even when you're off the bike. Regular wool and cotton will cause you to simultaneously overheat, freeze to death and suffocate. You need to keep your highly tuned engine cocooned in petro-chemical fabrics designed to breath, stretch, massage and caress your athletic physique.
10) Demand a discount for all of your bike gear. You're a serious rider and serious riders shouldn't have to pay retail. Only newbies pay retail. You're special and shops need to recognize this buy giving you a discount. Since they mark everything up 100% this won't hurt them plus when people see you riding with the gear it'll drive up the shop's sales so you're doing them a favor with all the free advertising you're giving them.
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